As enthusiastic as Curtis was about his project, his framing of it as memorializing the demise of the ‘noble savage’ might have damaged its reputation with posterity. That theme of exoticism attributed to Enlightenment intellectual Jean Jacques Rosseau argued for a positive interpretation of a negative state, that praise was due to ‘primitives’ not in spite of but because of their simple lives. Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels revised the concept to romanticise aboriginal peoples; theirs was ostensibly a flattering generalisation. For Curtis, like sculptor Frederick Remington, the archetypal American Indian was a figure of dignity who embodied the landscape and could not be separated from it. His departure from the continent was due to Manifest Destiny, the notion that European Christians would exercise their dominion by divine right in a democracy no different than kings had in a monarchy. Curtis, renowned while active, has been reviled for his fiction since: his version of ‘the Indian’ was his own vision and not the Native Americans,’ bereft of ‘civilization.’ Curtis staged ceremonies for his view camera. His ‘head hunter’ movie reportedly starred Kwakiutl men wearing fake nose rings. From portrayals such as these, children have long been taught to play Cowboys and Indians, performing in their antics the rightfulness of conquest and establishment of empire. Their imagined Indian loyal sidekick, Tonto to the Lone Ranger, is as real in subservience as parody in legitimacy. But a contemporary collector’s edition of Curtis’s ambitious series, reissued on gilded paper, hand bound in leather, has garnered the commendations of influential Native Americans who wish to engage as equals, re-appropriating his exposures for a new narrative. Novelist Louis Erdrich, among others, an enrolled member of the Ojibwe (Chippewa) tribe, has endorsed the ‘intensity of regard,’ the disturbing appeal of the visualisation.
During World War II, Nazi propaganda emphasised the physical attractiveness of the Aryan race, especially compared to the degenerate aesthetics of others. Harkening back to antiquity, the details of the desirable physiognomy were codified by reference works such as architect Paul Schultze Naumberg’s Nordic Beauty and physician Eugene Fischer’s Foundations of Human Genetics and Racial Hygiene. Purity of the volksgemeinschaft was policed by bureaucrats with calipers measuring the shape and the slope of the nose, among variables asserted to be symbolic, the wrong dimensions indicating inferiority. Dancer turned movie director Leni Riefenstahl, Hitler’s darling, worshipped the athletic body in her propaganda movies, manuals encouraged rigorous child rearing techniques for citizens better able to serve the Fuhrer, a freikorperkultur (free body culture) movement extolled nudism to express natural masculinity, and the Faith and Beauty Society of the League of German Girls prepared members to be wives and mothers who would bring up the next generation for the Third Reich. Posters were printed to instruct the public in these matters. The irony is that the ubiquitous likeness of the perfect Aryan baby was in fact the countenance of Latvian Jew, Hessy Levinsons.
It would be difficult to deny, then, that skin color is intrinsic to photography. A picture cannot be generated without considering the exposure triangle of aperture, shutter speed, and sensitivity of the recording surface (ISO). White balance must be set in advance. An image is correctly exposed by calibrating to the 18% middle gray of the Ansel Adams zone system. When the Kodak company enjoyed a monopoly on processing film, it offered a ‘Shirley’ card, named for the employee who was a model, to assess temperature and tone; a moving picture counterpart was called the ‘China girl,’ not for her nationality but for her porcelain skin. In the 1990s, Kodak introduced a version with multiple women, each illustrative in her own right, and by then it was competing against the Japanese import Fuji, inspiring debates over which stock was superior. Anyone who is not within the range of normal, is deemed a problem. It is not their presence but the inaccurate measurements which ruins the picture. Yet autofocus and facial detection are rated sufficiently satisfactory to be sold to consumers in their devices if they function fine for whites, even if they demonstrably fail with non-whites. Viral videos on the internet bear out these defects in the feature even as haters dismiss their significance. In 2008, while Barack Obama won the presidential election, becoming the first African American to hold the office as leader of the United States and by extension ‘the free world,’ his photos allegedly were darkened by adversaries to provoke anxieties. All editors have choices, in burning and dodging as in cropping, and with digital tools any aspect can be manipulated for effect. That is even before the advent of the deep fake.
Our observation of others would be easy if character were revealed on the surface, the good as lovely and the evil as ugly. How much can photographs show of what matters?